Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Flowers, Flowers, and MORE Flowers

We went to the market on Thursday in Delft. After picking up the usual assortment of produce, fish, and cheese, I took mom to paradise - I mean the flower market. Unable to contain herself (and aware of the fact that I only own one vase), she bought 7 bundles of flowers.

Did I mention we live in a 300 sq ft apartment and only own one vase? Since we own about as many dishes as vases, it was a good thing the recyclables had not been taken out lately. Our apartment is now filled with no less than 8 containers of flowers! Matt keeps walking around and exclaiming, "Did you know we have flowers in the storage closet?"

Just kidding - Mom, they are beautiful. And don't worry - I'll continue to fill all the containers with water. I can't wait 'til you come back in April and the tulips are in season!

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Art

"The art galleries of Paris contain the finest collection of frames I ever saw."
-Humphrey Davy

And if the frames are fine, the ceilings are magnificent. And if the ceilings are magnificent, the art is breathtaking.

Okay, well most of it and more if it would be if there weren't tons of tourists standing in the way snapping pictures. Seriously, stop taking terrible photos and actually look at the art. I am of the opinion they should ban cameras in museums - the pictures are terrible, the takers are distracting, the crowds clog the flow of traffic, and I don't want to be in your photos. Let me let you in on a little secret - your face in front of a masterpiece does not enhance it. Buy a postcard from the gift shop, buy the collection catalog, look the piece up on wikipedia or the museum websites, savor your memories, but please, please stop taking worthless pictures of priceless pieces. And OMG if you are taking the picture with your cell phone...did you wake up this morning and find yourself mysteriously in Paris?

Getting down off my soapbox...
I think the Louvre is more quantity than quality, but we did visit our three favorite ladies: Venus de Milo, Winged Victory, and Mona Lisa. (See how I did that - I shared the art with you without taking ridiculously awful pictures you didn't want to see anyway at the museum while obstructing the view of countless other visitors.)

Next we walked across the courtyard to the Decorative Arts Museum and saw the evolution of design from Art Nouveau to the 21st Century. I especially enjoyed the exhibit on the color red in design.

Then it was through the Tuileries Gardens to my favorite museum in Paris (or anywhere else for that matter).


A museum chosen and designed by Monet to display his paintings "without borders". The museum has two oval rooms, each of which house 4 canvases that spread around the room allowing for a 360 degree view of the Nympheas (or waterlilies paintings). You can virtually visit the museum here. However, I must warn you, viewing these paintings will make you want to buy a plane ticket to Paris immediately. Go ahead and do it; I will meet you there and we can gaze at these magnificent paintings together!

Needing to get the most out of our museum pass, we popped into the Cluny Museum to peek at the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries. They were beautiful and amazingly well preserved.

Our time in Paris was coming to an end. We visited my favorite bakery Eric Kayser and picked up a few loaves of olive bread for our train picnic. We completed our picnic with the leftover cheeses from the day before and a bottle of French wine. What a lovely way to travel!

Au revoir Paris!

Dawn til Way Past Dusk II

We said goodbye to the islands and hello to Paris shopping sales! And the sales in Paris aren't like a weekly red apple or white sale - these are the twice-a-year, government regulated sales.

The shopping started on the famous Champs-Elysees. The boulevard was still decorated with its beautiful Christmas lights and the sideways overflowed with people. Somehow costume jewelery even seems more elegant when coming out of a Paris department store.
Our walk down the boulevard took us straight to the Arc de Triomphe, where after climbing more steps we were rewarded with a beautiful view of night time Paris. From the roof of the Arc we watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle in all her glory - one of my favorite thing in Paris.

After the sparkle show, we traveled to the Rue de Cler area for dinner at Chez Agnes. The restaurant is a one woman show - she cooks, she serves, she entertains. When we came in she change the pin on her shirt from a French flag to an American rhinestone pin. We started with escargot and a fois gras salad with the house red wine. For dinner, mom enjoyed a delicious lamb chomp and I had a wonderful, moist leg of duck. She wouldn't serve us dessert until we had cleaned our plates; I quickly finished the remaining rice on my plate so I could have apple pie a la mode. The best part about dinner was talking to Agnes, the businessman from Dijon next to us, and watching "Bonnie" the dog. Agnes was very proud of the dog she got from West Virginia and the Christmas ornament from the White House (even though it was Bush's White House).

It was another wonderful day in Paris.

Dawn til Way Past Dusk

Mom and I were in Paris for only 2 and half days, so we had to make the most of the 54 hours. Day two started beautifully - literally - with a gorgeous sunrise and magnificent rainbow.
After picking up croissants from Hilaire ( "where the hotels buy their croissants" according to Rick Steves), we headed to mass at the Notre Dame.
It was nice to be able to walk through the church and appreciate the sheer size of the cathedral before the hoards of tourists descended upon it just hours later. Although, I do have to say the "modernish" nativity did surprise me and felt quite out of place in the medieval building.Yes, there is a flat screen and floating lights in the nativity at the Notre Dame. It had the same tacky effect that a flat screen fire place does in living room; you just wonder, "Why?"

Next we walked down the Seine River to the Orsay Museum, my now second favorite art museum. The building was just as grand and magnificent as I remembered and the paintings even more beautiful. My favorite part of the museum (like most people's, I'm sure) is the impressionist paintings. I love the Monets of the women with the umbrella in the fields and Degas' ballerinas.There was also a temporary exhibit exploring the connection between the Le déjeuner sur l'herbe by Edouard Manet and a series of paintings and sculptures by Pablo Picasso. It displayed the original painting by Manet surrounded by works by Picasso that were inspired by the painting. I found it amazing that one painting could inspire an entire series of work by Picasso.

After the museum we started a walking tour of the historic core of Paris, which included the Ill de la Cite and the Ill St. Louis - the two islands in the center of the Seine River. We began by walking past the booksellers along the river; unfortunately many of them were closed due to the dreary weather.

Along the first part of the walk we visited Pont Neuf, the Latin Quarter, the Concierge (which had a very nice architecture exhibit on Paris' past world exhibitions), and ended up at the Sainte-Chapelle. The chapel, built for Louis IX, is an amazing display of stained-glass windows, tiled floors, and painted walls. The upper chapel is truly breath taking (even the second time).
Next we returned to the Notre Dame to visit the archeological museum under the cathedral and climb the towers to see our favorite gargoyles.
Continuing on to the Ill St.Louis, we picked up a picnic lunch from the cheese shop and bakery. Unfortunately, due to the rain we ate our picnic under the awning of a closed shop. Then we browsed through the shops and boutiques lining the streets of the island, including my favorite kitchen stores that sells goods made by Pylones. We ended the walk with some ice cream (and coffee - our day was far from over) from Berthillon.

Luxembourg Gardens

When Matt and I visited the Luxembourg Gardens last fall they were filled with gorgeous flower beds, joggers, sunbathers, children playing, leaf filled trees, and sunshine - just as was presented in Madeline books you read as a child.
Last week - not so much. The grounds were covered in snow and all the green had disappeared for the winter. But the snow and cold did not deter the groups of old men playing bocce ball and chess in the gardens (in the correct places, of course). And I even got mom to sit in a chair for a minute and pretend she was relaxing in the sun instead of shivering in the cold.









Old men playing Bocce Ball in the gardens
Chess players by the tennis courts
Mom "sunbathing" in the gardens

Monday, January 19, 2009

And on to Paris

I loved Paris the first time; the second time it stole my heart.

We started our trip to Paris with stairs (and a crepe) and I am sure we ended it with stairs.We climbed the hill to Montmartre and the Sacre-Coeur - the church on the top of the hill that can be seen from every other vantage point in Paris. The closest Matt and I came to church was the view from the top of the Notre Dame, so I knew it must be my first stop the next time I was in Paris.
















The church was nice, but the view was what made the climb worth the countless stairs.
Next we were bombarded with quick-sketch artists on the way to place du Terte - the old stomping grounds of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Today the square is filled with artists painting countless versions and copies of famous Paris landmarks.
I guess we would have to wait for the "real" art until tomorrow.

Moeder Komt

Mom's Whirlwind Tour of Amsterdam:

Mom inspecting bulbs in the floating flower market
Tulips in the flower market
Flower Booth
Mom & me eating raw herring, onions, and pickles
Mom & me "skating" in Vondel Park
Matt & me on a frozen pond in Vondel Park

Mom & me outside in the Rijksmuseum in the sculpture garden
Mom finishing the night with a chocolate waffle

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Flair

Starting in London, Laura and I began to notice that flair is no longer just a Facebook phenomenon in Europe; flair is also being sold in stores, particularly tourist shops. We haven't really seen people wearing it - yet - but it's certainly available. (Laura also saw flair on sale in Paris earlier this week.)

So we want to know: Is this a European or intercontinental phenomenon? (And for my own information, does anyone know if the use of the term flair to describe novelty buttons was originally coined in Office Space?)

Monday, January 12, 2009

Some final thoughts on London

I suspect a person could live in London for years and hardly scratch the surface of what the city has to offer... and we were only there for a week! It's impossible not to be swept up in the history that permeates every street corner. Just think that a scant 400 years prior, Shakespeare was roaming the streets of Elizabethan London, busily crafting his most famous plays, adding many notable phrases to the English language* (one fell swoop, vanish into thin air, flesh and blood), and avoiding the Plague. Hopefully we'll make it back to the London area some day for further adventures, but for now it's time to officially wrap up the posts on London with some final thoughts and observations...

We're lucky we didn't get run over. Everyone knows the British drive on the wrong ("wrong" meaning "left") side of the road. You might not know that the British are in fact responsible for the vast majority of other countries that still drive on the left and that mainland Europeans largely have Napoleon to thank for the privilege of driving on the right side of the road. (It seems the history of driving on one side of the road over the other is all tied up with wagons and occupying forces.)

In addition, unless you've visited London, you may not know that painted on the street at every single intersection are the words, "Look right→" or "←Look left." These carefully placed words, as you might imagine, are designed to keep tourists from looking for cars in the wrong direction, seeing that the road is clear, and then stepping into the street and getting hit by a double-decker bus. These kind reminders saved me a number of times, which in turn also saved Laura since they reminded me to horse-collar her out of the busy intersection and back onto the sidewalk.

We also enjoyed seeing how the left-ness (much like our own right-ness) permeates every aspect of life, with trains traveling on the left, escalators on the left, people walking up/down stairs on the left, etc.



The world economy is not, in fact, conspiring against us. At the time that we moved to Europe, the dollar was so incredibly worthless compared to the Euro that we probably would have been better off burning dollar bills than using them to pay for our heating bill. But this time around, we got lucky - at the time of our trip to London, the British Pound was almost dead even with the Euro, meaning that based on the historical exchange rate, we effectively received a 20-30% discount on everything. We call it "The British Holiday Sale."

I will never step foot in Harrods or Selfridges again. London's two most famous department stores - one of which (Selfridges) is the original home of Paddington Bear - are many things, starting with world renowned, marvelously appointed, and eminently luxurious. They're also mindlessly expensive and suffocatingly crowded... I'm sorry, Laura - there's just something unnatural about flipping through racks of £500 sweaters while packed so close to other shoppers that crowd surfing is the only viable exit strategy.

Mind the Gap. "Mind the Gap" is a quirky phrase that is repeated no less than a billion times a day in various London Underground stations. It refers to the gap between the train and the platform, which is larger in some stations because they are curved, though not large enough to pose a risk for any marginally attentive human being.



A little slice of home. Britain is a nice middle ground between Europe and the United States. The lack of language barrier is an obvious boon, and there were enough other similarities to make these two European travelers feel almost like we had made it home for the holidays. For instance, in British restaurants - like American restaurants but completely unlike any mainland European restaurant - you can actually expect servers to ask you if you are enjoying your meal while you're still eating it and bring you the bill without first requiring you to club them and physically drag them to the cash register. They'll also serve you tap water, and they'll even - wait for it - put ice in your cup! Woohoo! No one whines about giving you change, the stores are open ridiculously long hours, storekeepers openly acknowledge your existence even when busy (with a friendly "Be with you in a moment"), people drive big cars (by European standards, anyway)...it's like America Light. Laura and I felt right at home.

Well, it was almost like home... British English and American English are not quite the same thing, and thus talking to people was not always effortless. Exhibit A: When going through customs on our way into London, the customs officer asked us a number of quick-fire questions that largely left me staring at him in stupefied silence. (Meanwhile, Laura answered effortlessly, as usual.)

On that note, it is now my lifelong goal to make the word "rubbish" cool in the US.

Weekend ice skating

Last weekend saw the best ice skating conditions in the Netherlands in more than a decade. Laura and I were very much hoping to join all the Dutch skaters on the frozen canals and lakes, but after spending much of Saturday afternoon in old town Delft unsuccessfully inquiring about skate rentals, we were forced to give up. The Dutch were not caught similarly unprepared, and thus the weekend contained all manner of organized ice skating tours, races, etc. throughout the country. Below is a nice video from a Dutch marathon race held over the weekend, and here's an unrelated but very nice picture.



All of the ice skating fun has also resulted in a doubling of hospital business, freaked out train operators, and the rescue of ten people and a dog who walked across the ice to Pampus Island in Amsterdam but weren't able to walk back because of a newly formed rift. If you look at a map, you'll see that Pampus Island is something like 2 miles from land. Having grown up much closer to the equator, I can't even fathom that amount of uninterrupted ice.

On Sunday we met Laura's mom, Pam, at the airport and spent the day walking around Amsterdam, where we were fortunate to stumble upon some very nice natural ice at Vondel Park. The closest we got to skating was walking across the ice there, which was rock solid (though the three of us still shared fears of falling through).

Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on your perspective), the weather is warming this week (it was a balmy 41°F today!) Thus, the Elfstedentocht looks increasingly unlikely. Maybe next year.